Jumbo Sub-Seconds

Dogma manual-wind dress watch from the mid-1950s. The 36mm case carries bezel and case middle in 20-micron gold plating over a stainless steel snap back, marked LUNETTE & CARRURE PLAQUÉ OR G 20 MICRONS / FOND ACIER INOXYDABLE. Inside is a 17-jewel Swiss manual-wind movement of the A. Schild 1130 family, matching the 1130 stamp on the case back. Dogma was a La Chaux-de-Fonds name: the trademark was registered by Clémence Frères & Cie in 1949, and from 1951 the company traded as Arthur Dorsaz & Cie, Montres Dogma, before the brand passed to Aubry Frères in 1972. The house built its reputation on well-executed Ebauches SA calibers rather than in-house novelty, and sold widely across Western Europe with a particularly strong presence in Spain. The AS 1130 is one of the more respected ebauches of the period: 17 jewels, 18,000 A/h, roughly 41 hours of running reserve, small seconds at six. What sets this example apart is the dial, a two-level silvered guilloché with a spiral centre, applied gold arrowhead indices and applied Arabic 12, 3 and 9. - Movement: Manual wind, 17 jewels, A. Schild 1130 family, 18,000 A/h - Case: 20-micron gold-plated bezel and case middle, stainless steel snap back - Case diameter: 36mm excluding crown (37.9mm including crown) - Case back markings: LUNETTE & CARRURE PLAQUÉ OR G 20 MICRONS / 83 11573 / 1130 / FOND ACIER INOXYDABLE - Dial: Silvered two-level guilloché, spiral centre, applied gold arrowhead indices, applied Arabic 12, 3 and 9 - Hands: Gold-tone dauphine, gold-tone small seconds hand - Crystal: Domed acrylic - Strap: Later black leather with gold-tone pin buckle - Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds - Water resistance: Untested for current vintage seal - Year: ca. 1955 The dial is the strongest part of this watch. The guilloché is crisp on both levels, the applied indices are complete and securely seated, and there is no foxing or lacquer lifting. A few very fine surface marks are visible under macro magnification and the gold plating on the hands shows light tarnish. The case shows honest wear: a visible band of plating loss along the case flank between roughly two and four o'clock with the brass showing through, plus lighter wear on the lug edges and the bezel rim. The acrylic crystal has light surface marks and no chips. The strap is a later replacement. The movement is running and keeping time over a 24-hour test. Most Dogma cases that surface in this market carry 10-micron plating; the 20-micron marking here is double that, and 36mm is a generous diameter for a mid-1950s dress case. From a private collection. No box or papers. Shipped fully insured, tracked, and signature-required worldwide.